Palladino

Barolo Riserva 'San Bernardo' 2013

96

My records indicate that I was fortunate to taste and score this wine “blind” in Alba on January 25, 2019, but a lot of water has passed under the proverbial bridge since then, so I didn’t recall that when I was again fortunate to taste a press sample of it last week. Despite that, my scores from the two tastings were identical, despite very different circumstances and 18 intervening months. Indeed, the main elements in my review from the blind tasting (which I just looked up as I write this) correspond perfectly to how the wine tastes now, after shipment to the USA. It shows marvelously expressive aromas immediately after the cork is pulled, with very heady scents of ripe fruit intermingled with multiple savory notes recalling cured meat and wild mushrooms. It is almost as quick out of the starting block in terms of flavor, displaying both red and black fruit tones as well as balsamic and spicy accents. The tannins are abundant but very fine in grain, lending shape to the ripe fruit flavors but without impinging on the wine’s very long, beautifully proportionate finish. One last thing: Many Barolo lovers deserted the “Riserva” category because many of the wines were criminally over-oaked during the “modernist” period that began in the 1990s before receding around 2005. Some modernist wines became very good with age, but the worst of the barrique-blasted Riservas started blunt and hard with wood tannins, stayed hard, and scared away a lot of wine lovers who had paid big money for them. This wine is a wonderful case in counterpoint, and although it will probably get better in the years ahead, it is totally ready to rock right now

Palladino

Barolo Riserva 'San Bernardo' 2013

95

Though the 2016 vintage in Barolo has been receiving great critical acclaim — rightfully so — other vintages from that DOCG are not far behind. Case in point, this 2013 from Palladino, based in Serralunga d’Alba, a Barolo zone known for tannic and tough wines. This one is terrific, muscular, but not tough at all. In fact, it’s surprisingly glossy, especially for a wine from Serralunga. A traditionally framed Barolo, it exudes a wonderful mixture of savory notes (especially, meaty ones) and dark fruit flavors. It’s chewy but tender. Engaging now, this wine is for the cellar to allow more development. Palladino has less than two acres in the small San Bernardo vineyard, so production is limited. It is worth the search

Palladino

Barolo Riserva 'San Bernardo' 2013

95

Rich ruby color, lush nose, silky texture, pure and precise plum and raspberry fruit, racy acidity and juicy style; exquisite, deep and long