Dei

Rosso di Montepulciano 2020

90

The nose mixes a smoky savoriness with aromas of warm tar and grilled meat, the rich sweetness of black cherries and cooked strawberries and all over an undertone of flinty salt. Berries join the cherries to highlight the palate, but savoriness returns with spices and herbs on the finish

Dei

Rosso di Montepulciano 2019

90

Having written so-called “progressive” wine lists for more than 20 years, I find it ever more difficult to find authentically light-bodied red wines to list as such. Here is an exception, and thank heavens, as most of us are eating fewer steaks and more dishes like grilled fish or roast chicken in an attempt to… well, avoid congestive heart failure. This offers up lovely, lively Sangiovese aromas and flavors of red cherries and berries with a delightfully fresh tang to the finish, but also subtle savory notes that lend complexity and some “bass” to go with all the tangy “trebble.” Climate change and winemaker over-reaction to “Parkerism” conspire against wines such as this, but thankfully they survive.

Dei

Rosso di Montepulciano 2019

88

Smoky cherry, strawberry and tobacco flavors mark this firm red, which is balanced, with a compact finish that should relax in a few months. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Merlot