Fanetti

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2015

91

This traditional wine is so traditional that I can barely recall some of the aromatic and flavor nuances from my initial studies in wine in the latter half of the 1980s — and that is a good thing. A very good thing, for me at least. I love it that producers still exist who will stick to their guns to make a Riserva like this and that there are still importers who will bring them to our side of the Atlantic. To be technical for starters, there are obviously oxidative characteristics that are throwing off the balsamic and leathery notes that are so striking about this, and yet it would be a mistake to simply write that “the wine is oxidized.” That’s not true, due to the fact that there are still primary fruit notes present, and a layer of fruit sweetness that counterbalances the panoply of tertiary subtleties, making for a compelling combination of fresh and aged aspects that I find irresistible. I’m sure that this won’t prove to be everyone’s “cup of tea,” but for me it is a wonderfully endearing time capsule in a bottle. I have deliberately scored it conservatively because I know this will prove a bit surprising for those who only drink technically orthodox, ultra-modern New World wines, but even then, this chalks up 91 points as a recommendation for anyone and everyone — though it would earn another couple of points if only my taste were at issue.

Fanetti

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2010

89

Earthy notes of underbrush, truffle, tilled soil and ripe plum lead the nose on this solid Vino Nobile. The straightforward palate offers crushed black cherry, raspberry, white pepper and a hint of licorice alongside fine-grained tannins. Enjoy through 2018

Fanetti

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2007

88

This riserva shows initial prune and tobacco aromas followed by dark cherry, blackberry and coffee flavors. The palate is lean and restrained, with smooth tannins and mineral notes. Showing the forward nature of the vintage, this is already drinking well and should be enjoyed soon